Bruges Tourist

In Bruges.

Daniel Lanciana
11 min readDec 2, 2024

Road trip with Julia and Lucas in 2022. Stayed in a — cool but cold — camper van Airbnb (foreshadowing my 40th), driving manual on the other side, pretty countryside, Tintin, Smurfs, ducking over the France, trappist breweries along the way (Brewery St Bernard, winery vibes; Sint-Sixtusabdij Westvleteren, cafe/shop across the street). Chocolate, beer, frites and waffles!

2024 Update: Overnight visit with great friends, Antwerp station, proposal! (Lover’s Bridge), winter Xmas markets (boot mug), watching In Bruges, too many chocolate stores (gourmet Snickers/Twix), waffles, fritesmuseum (potato facts), strong beers, S.P.Q.B., beautiful architecture and cobbled streets, pickle ornament, light festival, croissant jacket, “Dragon Bench” album cover, 1515 tavern…and possible food poisoning.

About

The capital and largest (over 117,000 residents) city of the province of West Flanders, in the Flemish Region of Belgium. The name probably derives from the Old Dutch for “bridge.” One of the best-preserved medieval towns in Europe, the historic city centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Attracts some eight million tourists annually.

Once one of the world’s chief commercial cities due to its port. Bruges engaged in trade with the Republic of Genoa (1277), Venetian galleys (1314), Castilian wool merchants (13th century). The foreign merchants expanded the city’s trading zones and maintained separate communities governed by their own laws. Bruges was known for the Flemish school of oil painters, the first English publication (by William Caxton), and its lace.

Notable people born in Bruges include Philip I of Castile (first Habsburg ruler in Spain), Tony Parker (NBA player), and Gotye (Australian-Belgian singer-songwriter). Notable people who lived in Bruges include Flemish painters (Jan van Eyck, Petrus Christus, Hans Memling), William Caxton (English merchant, diplomat, writer, and printer), and Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy.

Featured in the books The Golden Basket (1936, first appearance of Madeline), Niccolò Rising, and L’Astrologue de Bruges; the films The Nun’s Story (1959, Audrey Hepburn), In Bruges (2008), and The Monuments Men (2014); and the television series Marvel’s Agents of S.H.I.E.L.D. The main antagonist of the Austin Powers film series, Dr. Evil, was raised in Bruges.

In 2002, designated European Capital of Culture.

History

Bronze Age and Iron Age coastal settlements prior to medieval city development.

The first fortifications were built after Julius Caesar’s conquest of the Menapii in the first century BC, to protect the coastal area against pirates. The Franks took over the whole region from the Gallo-Romans around the fourth century and administered it as the Pagus Flandrensis. The Viking incursions of the ninth century prompted Count Baldwin I of Flanders to reinforce the Roman fortifications; trade soon resumed with England and Scandinavia. Early medieval habitation starts in the ninth and tenth centuries.

In 1089, Bruges became the capital of the County of Flanders. In 1128, received a city charter. By the 12th century, the city had gained an autonomous administration. In 1302, the Bruges Matins night-time massacre of a French garrison by the members of the local Flemish militia — culminating in the victory at the Battle of the Golden Spurs. Between 1323 and 1328, the Flemish revolts. In 1470, King Edward IV and Richard III lived in exile. In the 15th century, Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, set up a court — attracting several artists, bankers, and other prominent personalities from all over Europe.

During the 13th century, locals adopted new forms of merchant capitalism — whereby several merchants would share the risks and profits and pool their knowledge of markets; employing new forms of economic exchange, including bills of exchange (i.e. promissory notes), and letters of credit.

Starting around 1500, the Zwin channel (the Golden Inlet) which had given the city its prosperity, began silting up and the Golden Era ended. During the 1650s, the city was the base for Charles II of England and his court in exile.

In the 19th century, Bruges became one of the world’s first tourist destinations. In World War I and II, German forces occupied Bruges but the city suffered virtually no damage.

Map

Note: An asterisk denotes a place I have yet to visit.

Basilica of the Holy Blood (1157)

Houses the relic of the Holy Blood (i.e. blood of Christ), which was brought to the city after the Second Crusade by Thierry of Alsace, and is paraded every year (May) through the streets of the city. More than 1,600 inhabitants take part in this mile-long religious procession, many dressed as medieval knights or crusaders.

Featured in the movie, In Bruges.

Markt

The Markt (Dutch for “Market”) is the central square of Bruges. Major events, jousts and tournaments were also held then in the square, as well as executions, which attracted large audiences.

In 1200, the first international annual fair held. In 1220, first hall built. In 1280, wooden tower destroyed by fire and rebuilt in stone from 1291 to 1296. Since 1396, fish trading with a fishmongers house on the north side of the square.

Between 1807 and 1810 the square was called the “Place Napoléon” then the “Grote Markt”. In 1936, renamed to “Markt” (Dutch for “market”). In 1996, renovated and reopened with a concert by Helmut Lotti.

Contains the Belfry, Provinciaal Hof, Cranenburg House, Post building, House Bouchoute (massive 1682 compass with direction of the wind and meridian line globe), and statue of Jan Breydel and Pieter de Coninck — fighters at the Battle of the Golden Spurs in 1302. Weekly market on Wednesdays.

Belfry of Bruges (circa 1240)

A medieval bell tower and one of the city’s most prominent symbols. Formerly housed a treasury and the municipal archives and served as an observation post for spotting fires and other dangers. Included on the World Heritage Site of Belfries of Belgium and France. 366 steps to the top.

After a devastating fire in 1280, the tower was largely rebuilt; the city archives, however, were forever lost to the flames. The octagonal upper stage of the belfry was added between 1483 and 1487 and included a spire that was destroyed in a 1493 lightning strike; a replacement wooden spire crowned the summit for some two-and-a-half centuries, before it, too, fell victim to flames in 1741.

In 1675, the carillon comprised 35 bells. After the fire of 1741, replaced by a set of bells — 26 of which are still in use. There were 48 bells at the end of the 19th century, but today the bells number 47, together weighing about 27.5 tonnes. The bells range in weight from two pounds to 11,000 pounds. Starting from 1604, the city employs a full-time carillonneur to play songs during Sundays, holidays, and market days.

Featured in the film In Bruges and mentioned in the novel, Cloud Atlas.

Provinciaal Hof (1892)

“Provincial Hall” is the former meeting place for the Provincial Government of West Flanders. Used as the government meeting hall until 1999. Currently a ceremonial building, also used for exhibitions. Free to visit, large ornate rooms upstairs.

Ten Wijngaerde (Begijnhof) (founded 1244)

The Princely Beguinage Ten Wijngaerde is the only preserved beguinage (a Christian religious order) in Bruges. There are no more beguines living there, but since 1927 it has functioned as a convent for Benedictines. A UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The complex includes a Gothic beguinage church and about thirty white painted houses dating from the late 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. The entrance gate was built in 1776. Features a beguine house furnished as a museum.

Church of Our Lady* (1280)

The tallest (115.6-metres) structure in the city and the third tallest brickwork tower in the world. Contains the tombs of Charles the Bold, last Valois Duke of Burgundy, and that of his daughter, the duchess Mary.

Contains the sculpture Madonna and Child (1504), which is believed to be the only Michelangelo sculpture to have left Italy within his lifetime.

The Donkey’s Gate.

Medieval Gates

At first, there were eight gates that served as entrances to the city of which only four survive today.

  • Ezelpoort (1369). The “Donkey Gate.”
  • Gentpoort (1400).
  • Kruispoort (1402). The “Cross Gate” is the best preserved.
  • Smedenpoort (1367). The “blacksmith’s gate” has a bronzed human skull affixed to the facade — a replica of the skull of an executed traitor (let in hostile French troops) whose head was prominently displayed as a warning to the people.

St. Salvator’s Cathedral* (13th century)

Main church of the city, also known as the Cathedral of the Saviour and St. Donat. Features a 99-meter high neo-Romanesque tower, 101-meter long interior, and organ with 60 stops.

Built to replace the previous church, which was destroyed in a 1127 fire. The oldest surviving part, dating from the 12th century, formed the base of the mighty tower. The construction of the current church lasted for about a century. In 1839, the roof of the cathedral collapsed in a fire.

Bruges City Hall (1421)

During the French Revolution, all the statues on the building’s facade were destroyed. A small number of genuine pieces are now included in the collections of the city museum. In 1766, the door on the left side of the building’s facade was repositioned to make the overall effect more symmetrical. Restored between 1895 and 1905.

Café Vlissinghe (1515)

One of the oldest pubs in the world and the oldest continuously running café in Bruges. In 1998, protected monument status.

There is a made-up story that the painter Pieter Paul Rubens once stayed there and in the taproom there is a chair in which the artist is said to have sat.

Old Civil Registry (1537)

One of the oldest Renaissance buildings in Flanders that housed the Civil Registrar — one of the most important city officials. The facade is made entirely from natural stone and is richly decorated with carvings. Still used by the City Council of Bruges today.

The bronze statues date from 1883. Restored in 1877, 1980, and 2001. A protected monument since 1942 and it has been a designated architectural heritage site since 2009.

Fish Market.

See

  • Fish Market (1820). A Classical colonnade that is now considered the oldest preserved fish market in Belgium. You can buy day-fresh seafood from Wednesday to Saturday morning.
  • Lover’s Bridge. Crosses the Minnewater (Lake of love). Legend tells that if you cross the bridge you’ll enjoy eternal love together.
  • Provostry of St. Donatian* (1666). Former headquarters of the ecclesiastical seigniory (i.e. lord) of St. Donatian. The huge door was an entrance way for horses and carriages. Lady Justice can be seen above and the Greek gods of truth, charity and justice can be seen on the top pediment.
  • Windmill The New Parrot* (1790, relocated 1970). Formerly the “Hoge Seinemolen” before being moved and renamed. Features a parrot weather vane. Not accessible for the public.
Canal tour.

Do

  • Canal tour.
  • Concertgebouw* (2002). A large concert hall seating more than 1290 a chamber music hall seating 320. It features a café and room for exhibitions in the Lantaarntoren (Lantern Tower) which offers a view of the historic town. The 68,000 red terracotta tiles were chosen to match the colour of Bruges’ medieval rooftops.
  • Jan Breydel Stadium* (1975). Home stadium of two top-flight association football clubs and rivals, Club Brugge and Cercle Brugge. Capacity of 29,042 seats and named after an instigator of the Bruges Matins — the insurgency that led to the 1302 Battle of the Golden Spurs. Hosted four Euro 2000 matches.
  • KAAP | De Werf*. Arts center and jazz concert hall.
Groeningemuseum.

Museums

  • Adornes Domain*. 15th-century estate with a number of almshouses, mansion, and Jerusalem Chapel (1429). The estate is still owned by the Adornes family, who came from Genoa.
  • Choco-Story*. Chocolate museum located in the sixteenth-century “Huis de Crone” building.
  • Frietmuseum. Museum on the history of potatoes and the production of Belgian fries. Located in one of the oldest (1399) buildings in the World Heritage listed historic centre. Self-described as “the first and only museum dedicated to potato fries.”
  • Groeningemuseum*. Built on the site of the medieval Eekhout Abbey, it houses a collection of Flemish and Belgian painting covering six centuries. Highlights include multiple works by Jan van Eyck and The Last Judgement by Hieronymus Bosch.
  • Gruuthusemuseum*. A museum displaying the interior of a wealthy house as it would have been in the late Middle Ages. Highlights include a painted terracotta bust of Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor from 1520.
  • Lumina Domestica*. Lamp Museum with a collection of more than 6,000 lamps.

Coffee

  • Dees Koffiebranders
  • We Are Coffee Makers*
  • Vero*

Eat

Belgian waffles (local waffles are traditionally savoury, not sweet), chocolate, and frites.

  • ‘t Molenhof (cool restaurant, lots of beers)
  • Arlecchino By John (fresh-made waffles)
  • Bij Koen & Marijke* (bbq)
  • Bruut* (fine dining)
  • Cambrinus (brasserie)
  • Frituur de Gentpoorte* (best frietkoten — or French “fry-shacks”)
  • Pieter Porbus*
  • Onslow*
  • Sanseveria Bagelsalon* (bagels)
  • The Old Chocolate House* (waffles with chocolate on the side)
De Garre.

Drink

Several beers are named after the city such as Brugge Blond, Brugge Tripel, Brugs, Brugse Babbelaar, Brugse Straffe Hendrik, and Brugse Zot. However, only the latter two — Brugse Zot and Brugse Straffe Hendrik — are brewed in the city itself, in the De Halve Maan Brewery.

  • ‘t Brugs Beertje
  • ‘t Poatersgat (basement bar)
  • 2BE Beer Wall (wall of bottles, store, and bar)
  • Bar Ran* (cocktails)
  • Brouwerij Kazematten*
  • Brugse Gin Club (G&Ts)
  • De Garre (attic, excellent own-brewed beer you can’t get anywhere else)
  • De Kelk* (craft brewery)
  • Groot Vlaenderen (so-so cocktails, nice atmosphere)
  • Huisbrouwerij De Halve Maan (brewery with guided tours, underground pipe)
  • Le Trappiste (beer in a 13th-century crypt, over 120 beers)
  • Retsins Lucifernum* (private bar with eccentric host, only open Weekends)

Shop

  • Cherry Picker* (record store + coffee)
  • Chocolatier Dumon (cottage-like store)
  • Neuhaus (fancy Belgian chocolate store)
  • The Chocolate Line (by Dominique Persoone — a national celebrity and a bit of a food genius who works in Heston Blumenthal’s think-tank for The Fat Duck and collaborates regularly with Albert Adria, owner of El Bulli)
  • Tintin Shop (mini-museum, lots of figurines)

Stay

  • Pand Hotel (great location, very well looked after)

References

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