New York Icons: Harbor Islands
Ellis, Liberty, Governors, Randalls & Roosevelt.
About
As part of New Netherlands the three islands in Upper New York Bay — Liberty, Black Tom, and Ellis Islands — were given the name Oyster Islands, alluding to the large oyster population nearby.
* Note: An asterisk denotes a place I have yet to visit properly.
Map
Black Tom Island
Former artificial island in New York Harbor that, by 1880, was 25-acres with a promontory, causeway, munitions depot, warehouses and railroad to New Jersey. Currently part of Liberty State Park (southeast corner).
In 1916, the “Black Tom explosion” was a German sabotage during World War that destroyed $20,000,000 worth ($470 million today) of Allied military goods (2,000,000 pounds of ammo, 100,000 pounds of TNT), killed four, and damaged the Ellis Island Main Building (causing an evacuation) and Statue of Liberty ($2.4 million in damages today)! In 1939, Imperial Germany was ordered to pay $50 million in damages, which Nazi Germany refused to pay; finally settled in 1953 for $95 million with the final payment made in 1979.
The explosion was the equivalent of a 5.5 earthquake, windows broken for 25 miles (Times Square, St. Patrick’s Church), fragments found a mile away, and felt as far away as Philadelphia and Maryland! Destroyed more than one hundred railroad cars, thirteen warehouses, and left a 375-by-175-foot (110 by 50 m) crater — one of the largest artificial non-nuclear explosions to have ever occurred! The Statue of Liberty’s torch has been closed to the public since the explosion due to structural damages.
Contributed to the shift of public opinion against Germany, eventually leading America entering World War I. In 1942, the rationale by FDR for Japanese-Americans internment camps following Pearl Harbor. Also led to the Espionage Act and creation of domestic intelligence agencies. A plaque* (“Explosion at Liberty!”) marks the spot of the explosion, circled by US flags.
Ellis Island
The busiest immigrant inspection station in the US between 1892 and 1954 — processing approximately 12 million immigrants. The 27-acre island is currently part of the Statue of Liberty National Monument, accessible only by ferry. Over time two new islands were added (island 2 in 1899, island 3 in 1906) from reclaimed land increasing the island size from the original 5-acres.
Processing involved a series of medial and mental inspections (immigrants marked with chalk), with 1% of immigrants deported. Eugenics (deformities, disabilities, mental illness — and “moral defects” such the poor, criminals and homosexuals) played a major role in helping create a “superior race.” Known as the “Island of Tears” or “Heartbreak Island.” Immigration officials may have unwittingly changed immigrants names (based on ship manifests), with others voluntarily anglicizing. According to an estimate, about 40% of the US population can trace their ancestry to immigrants who arrived at Ellis Island!
The native Mohegan name for the island was Kioshk (“Gull Island”), had a large population of seagulls, and disappeared underwater at high tide. In 1630, the Dutch bought Kioshk as a gift for one of the founders of New Netherland, Michael Reyniersz Pauw, and renamed Little Oyster Island. A popular oyster roast and clambake spot, with a commercial building added in the mid-18th century.
By the 1760s, site of public pirate executions at the “Gibbet Tree”! In 1774, acquired by merchant and namesake Samuel Ellis — although Little Oyster Island was used into the early 1900s. In 1794, the city deeded that land to the state for public defense purposes and the following year batteries and a jetty were added — although the Ellis family still owned most of the land. In 1808, island ceded to the US. Initially Crown Fort, renamed to Fort Gibson by the end of the War of 1812. Not used in combat, serving instead as a barracks and jail for British prisoners of war. Following the war a recruiting depot.
In 1834, Ellis Island declared to be an exclave of New York within the waters of New Jersey (ratified by U.S. Congress, which set the boundary line at the middle of the Hudson River and New York Harbor). Through the 1870s, 11 buildings constructed by the Navy. In 1890, the federal government assumed control based on “mismanagement, abuse of immigrants, and evasion of the laws” at Castle Clinton — which had controlled immigration since 1855 (processing over 8 million immigrants) — and decided to build a new station since the Clinton lease was due to expire. Initially, Liberty Island was selected as the site, but met with opposition.
The first station opened in 1892 with 17-year-old Annie Moore the first person processed. During construction, the island land size was almost doubled to 6 acres to accommodate the two-story station, hospital, detention, laundry, utility plant and ferry slip — all made of wood. While under construction, the Barge Office at the Battery was used for immigrant processing. Later additions included island expansion (to 14 acres) and underwater telegraph/telephone cables to Governors Island (1897). In 1897, fire razed all buildings and destroyed all 1,855 immigration records!
The second — fireproof — station opened in 1900 and was expanded to feature a ferry house (1901), waiting rooms (1903), 700-bed barracks (1903), hospital (1907), psychopathic ward (1907), dormitory building (1909), hospital expansion (1909), greenhouse (1910), contagious-diseases ward (1911), incinerator (1911), and American Red Cross recreation center (1915). Currently comprises of remnants of Fort Gibson, the main building (1900), hospital (1900), powerhouse (1901), kitchen and laundry (1901), laundry-hospital (1901), psychopathic ward (1906), Administration Building (1907), and Hospital Building №2 (1909), baggage and dormitory (1909), bakery and carpentry shop (1915), ferry building (1936), recreation hall (1939), museum (1990) and the Wall of Honor* (1990, the only US monument where the donors can permanently add names, 775,000 so far).
In 1956, the New Jersey Mayor led a contingent of officials on an expedition to claim the island under the pretense the artificial portions of the island were outside New York’s border! In 1976, the island partially reopened. In 1986, a temporary bridge to Liberty State Park was built to help with construction but was never torn down (not open to the public). In 1990, island underwent a complete renovation.
In 1959, unsuccessful bid to turn the island into a $55 million resort with a hotel, marina, music shell, tennis courts, swimming pools, and skating rinks. In 1959, Frank Lloyd Wright also designed a $100 million “Key Project” that included housing, hotels, and large domes (Wright died before presenting the project). In 1965, added to the Statue of Liberty National Monument. In 1970, a squatters’ club called the National Economic Growth and Reconstruction Organization (NEGRO) started refurbishing buildings as part of a plan to turn the island into an addiction rehabilitation center, but were evicted after less than two weeks!
In 1998, jurisdictional disputes finally resolved in a Supreme Court ruling that determined roughly 83% of the island is part of New Jersey! This caused some initial confusion, as some buildings straddled the interstate border; the ruling had no effect on the status of Liberty Island.
Entrance is free, but there is a charge for the ferry service that all visitors must use.
Main Building* (1900)
The original immigration station was built reusing several Fort Gibson structures and opened in 1892. It featured a 40-bed hospital, insane hospital, surgeon’s house, dining hall and detention facility (those awaiting deportation). Destroyed by fire in 1897.
The new, fireproof, building was opened without ceremony and barely able to meet demand — with immigrants waiting on boats for several days! The design received the gold medal at the 1900 Paris Exposition.
In 1916, the Black Tom explosion destroyed the main building’s roof (rebuilt 1918). Temporarily converted to a jail and treatment center during World War I, with immigration (which declined 97%) conducted on ships or at docks. Reopened 1920. In 1924, changed to an immigrant-detention center. In 1930, the hospital closed. In the 1930s, surgeon’s house, recreation center and greenhouse all demolished. During WWII, again used as a jail and hospital. In 1951, hospital closed again. By the 1950s, roughly 40 detainees remaining. In 1954, closed with the departure of its last detainee — Norwegian merchant seaman Arne Peterssen. The ferryboat Ellis Island, which had operated since 1904, stopped operating two weeks later.
Ellis Island Immigrant Hospital* (1901)
Hospital for treating immigrants who were either ill or prohibited (often sent back). Between 1902 and 1951 the hospital treated over 275,000 patients; there were approximately 4,000 fatalities (on par or better with comparable hospitals) and 350 babies were born. Some immigrants were required to strip off completely for physical inspections.
Located on the purpose-built Island 2, which was completed in 1898. In 1912 became the US Public Health Service (PHS). The hospitals used the most advanced methods in medicine for the time, such as x-ray and (now controversial) eugenics.
The New Hospital (Hospital Building №1) featured a surgeon’s house, laundry, and autopsy room. The 125 beds were quickly overwhelmed, an addition 125 beds were added in 1907 (Psychopathic Ward) and 1909 (Hospital Building №2). Administration building added in 1907. Fully operational in 1914, with 750 beds. Closed to immigration during the World War I — instead treating wounded soldiers. Renovated between 1934 and 1936.
In 2014, Unframed — Ellis Island by French artist JR installed (viewable as part of the Hard-Hat tour). Featured in the documentary Forgotten Ellis Island and an episode of The Today Show. Closed to the general public since its closing in 1954, private 90-minute Hard-Hat tours provided since 2014.
Immigration Museum* (1990)
Features exhibits, theaters, auditorium, store, and Bob Hope Memorial Library (who was processed at Ellis Island in 1908). In 2019, tours banned.
Liberty Island
Formerly Bedloe’s Island (renamed in 1956) has been property of the US government since 1800. Part of New York City, but completely surrounded by Jersey City.
In 1664, taken over by the British. In 1667, sold to Isaac Bedloe. In 1732, smallpox quarantine station; also again from 1756. In 1746, purchased by the Earl of Cassilis and a summer residence and lighthouse constructed. In the 1750s, also referred to as “Love Island.” Occupied by British troops leading-to-and-including the Revolutionary War. In 1776, British razed all the buildings on evacuating.
Fort Wood* (1811)
Granite fortification in the shape of an 11-point star protecting New York from British invasion in the upcoming conflict and named after a Colonel killed at the Siege of Fort Erie.
Liberty Enlightening the World* (1886)
The Statue of Liberty is a 204 ton 151-foot tall copper statue of Libertas — the Roman goddess of liberty —a gift from France to celebrate both the American Revolution and the Union’s victory in the Civil War. It sits upon a 154-foot pedestal provided by America, but fundraising proved difficult and with the project in jeopardy, groups from Boston and Philadelphia (amongst others) offered to pay the full cost in return for relocating it! Joseph Pulitzer of the New York World collected 120,000 donations on the promise to publish every contributor (most give less than a dollar) that galvanized the city. The pedestal itself sits atop Fort Wood.
Although designed as a symbol of liberty and enlightenment, it was quickly associated with immigration due to nearby Ellis Island (Emma Lazarus described the statue as the “Mother of Exiles”).
The statue was built in France and shipped over in 214 crates on the French steamer Isère — which almost sank! Two hundred thousand people lined the docks and hundreds of boats put to sea to welcome the ship. The first rivet was placed by the Ambassador to France. One of the earliest examples of curtain wall construction, in which the thin (0.094 inches thick) exterior of the structure is not load bearing, but is instead supported by an interior framework. In an attempt to prevent corrosion, Eiffel used asbestos. The pedestal was the largest poured concrete at the time.
Designed by Frédéric-Auguste Bartholdi, with the metal framework was built by Gustave Eiffel. The head and torch were completed first and exhibited at the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia (1876) and in Madison Square Park in Manhattan (1876 to 1882). Bartholdi considered having Liberty hold a broken chain, but thought it too divisive. The statue’s face is said to have been modeled on the sculptor’s mother. Originally copper yellow, by 1906 oxidation had turned the entire statue green!
She holds a torch above her head with her right hand and carries a tablet in her left inscribed JULY IV MDCCLXXVI (July 4, 1776 in Roman numerals). A broken shackle and chain lie at her feet as she walks forward, commemorating the recent abolition of slavery. The seven spikes on the crown each represent an ocean and continent of the world. Contains two spiral staircases and observation points in the crown (354 stairs, 25 windows) and around the torch (accessible by a 40-foot ladder, closed to the public in 1916). Aligned so the statue would greet ships entering the harbor. A power plant was installed on the island to light the torch.
By 1882, reporters were invited to have lunch in the half-complete statue. In 1883, to help raise funds for the pedestal the American poet Emma Lazarus wrote The New Colossus, a sonnet that includes the iconic lines “Give me your tired, your poor/Your huddled masses yearning to breathe free.” In 1903, the sonnet was engraved on a plaque affixed to the base.
Landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted supervised a cleanup of Bedloe’s Island in anticipation of the dedication. Planned floodlights were scrapped a week before dedication for fear of blinding ships; instead Bartholdi cut portholes in the torch and placed lights inside them. The resulting light was barely visible.
Grand marshal general Charles Stone claimed on the day of dedication that no man had died during the construction of the statue, but in fact two laborers died. The statue’s completion was marked by New York’s first ticker-tape parade (NYSE traders threw ticket tape from the windows starting the tradition, crowd estimated at up to one million!), nautical parade, then dedication ceremony presided over by President Grover Cleveland. A French flag draped across the face was dropped prematurely. Offended that only two females were permitted at the dedication, suffragists chartered a boat and staged a protest close to the island. Scheduled fireworks were delayed due to poor weather.
From 1886 to 1902, functioning lighthouse run by the Lighthouse Board; then the Department of War until 1933; then the National Parks Service. In 1916, sustained minor damage ($100,000 damage, closed for ten days) by the Black Tom explosion; the torch observation has remained closed since. In 1916, Ralph Pulitzer (son of Joseph) raised money for an exterior lighting system. In 1916, Gutzon Borglum (who later sculpted Mount Rushmore) redesigned the torch — replacing much of the original copper with stained glass. In 1916, President Woodrow Wilson pressed a telegraph key that turned on the lights. In 1929, the only suicide when a man jumped from the crown. In 1938, closed for six months for repairs. During WWII, not lit up at night due to wartime blackouts. In 1944, on D-Day lights flashed Morse code “V” for victory.
In 1946, inside coated with an anti-graffiti coating. From 1957, illuminated all night every night. In 1970, National Organization for Women draped an enormous banner over a railing which read “WOMEN OF THE WORLD UNITE!” In 1971, anti-Vietnam War veterans occupied the statue flying a US flag upside-down from the crown. In 1972, immigration museum opened in a ceremony led by President Richard Nixon; closed in 1991 after the opening of the immigration museum on Ellis Island. In 1976, for the American Bicentennial a regatta of ships from around the world sailed in and around Liberty Island as part of Operation Sail — which was capped off with a fireworks display.
In 1982, it was revealed the right arm was improperly attached and the head has been installed 2 feet off center! In 1983, one of the earliest “cause marketing” campaigns when American Express contributed 1¢ from each purchase made ($1.7 million total). From 1984 to 1986, closed for renovation (obscured by the world’s largest free-standing scaffold, torch replaced with a replica whose flame is covered in 24-karat gold). In 1986, reopening before Independence Day designated “Liberty Weekend” attended by President Reagan and French President François Mitterrand; also a reprise of Operation Sail.
Following 9/11, closed until 2009 (with limited visitors). In 2010, the first photo of the statue struck by lightning (an estimated 600 bolts each year). In 2012, closed and suffered severe damage due to hurricane Sandy (reopening 9 months later). From 2019, tour groups were banned from the observation deck and Ellis Island museum. In 2020, closed for three months during Covid.
Taken over several times by demonstrators — both illegally (Puerto Rican independence, pro-life, Grenada intervention) and legally (Gay Pride, Captive Baltic Nations). Wears a size 879 shoe. Smaller replicas are located in Paris (35-feet), Las Vegas, and Brooklyn Museum (30-foot). The most recognizable symbol of America — it has been featured on currency ($10 bill, coins), stamps (the 2010 “Forever” mistakingly used the image from the Las Vegas casino!!), sports teams, art (Andy Warhol series), and films (Planet of the Apes, Independence Day) amongst many others.
Entrance is free, but there is a charge for the ferry service that all visitors must use. Best seen from the free Staten Island Ferry, or on land on Governors Island or Red Hook.
Statue of Liberty Museum* (2019)
Contains the original 1886 torch (replaced in 1984), design sketches, photographs and an aerial view video. Featured in the documentary Liberty: Mother of Exiles.
Roosevelt Island
Two-mile long, 800-foot wide planed urban development that is part of Manhattan. The master plan includes a 99-year lease, three residential communities, no cars, free shuttle bus, campus-like schools, and one of the world’s largest vacuum garbage collection systems (no garbage trucks on the island!). Most of the 12,000 residents are renters. Connected via tram, train (one of the deepest subways), and bridge (but not connected to the overhead Queensboro Bridge).
Minnehanonck (“it’s nice to be here”) by the Lenape and Varkens Eylandt (Hog Island) by New Netherlanders (purchased 1637 from Canarsie Indians, used to raise hogs), and during the colonial era as Manning’s Island (1666) then Blackwell’s Island (1686).
In 1828, city of NY purchased island for $32k ($750k today). In 1832, penitentiary (prisoners could escape if they knew how to swim!) and prison hospital. In 1839, New York City Lunatic Asylum opened. From 1921 to 1973, Welfare Island used primarily for hospitals. From 1934 to 1955, vehicular elevator to the Queensboro Bridge (demolished 1970)! In 1955, Welfare Island Bridge built allowing direct vehicle access. In 1969, leased to the Urban Development Corporation for 99 years. In 1973, renamed to Roosevelt Island. In 1979, Roosevelt Island Garden Club started (long waiting list). In 2009, Improv Everywhere “MP3 Experiment Six” performance art fictional battle reenactment by 4,500 people!
Notable residents include UN Secretary General Kofi Annan and Sarah Jessica Parker. Former prisoners include Fritz Joubert Duquesne (Nazi spy), Billie Holiday (prostitution charges), Boss Tweed (Tammany Hall), and Mae West (public obscenity for her play, Sex). Visited by Charles Dickens.
Featured in the book The Great Gatsby; films Nighthawks, Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (Foot Clan hideout), City Slickers, For Love or Money, The Professional, Spider-Man, Gangs of New York, Anything Else; television Law & Order, Naked City, CSI, 24, America’s Next Top Model, Elementary, Billions; video games Grand Theft Auto IV and Crysis 2; and music videos Us and Them (Pink Floyd).
Blackwell House (1796)
Sixth-oldest house in New York on the site of cabins of the first Dutch settlers (1639). In 1668, the first British resident — John Manning. In 1828, Peter Cooper negotiated the purchase ($32,000) of the island by New York on front porch. In 1829 to 1955, home of hospital and prison staff. In 1975, restored.
New York City Lunatic Asylum (1841) & The Octagon (1834)
Also known as the New York City Mental Health Hospital. Once held twice the number of capacity patients, known for brutal treatment. The Octagon restored in 2006 and the last remnant of the original hospital; currently lobby for 500 units.
In 1858, large parts of the Asylum and penitentiary hospital burned down (and rebuilt). By 1895, inmates transferred to Ward’s Island and patients transferred to Blackwell’s Island. In 1955, closed leaving the building abandoned.
Renwick Smallpox Hospital (1856)
The “Renwick Ruin” was a 100-bed hospital designed by James Renwick Jr. featuring charity ward, private rooms, south wing (1904) and north wing (1905). In 1875, closed to become a nurse training center — later renamed Charity Hospital; closed in the 1950s. In 1972, the only city ruin landmark. Since 1995, ruins have been illuminated at night. In 2007, section of the north wing collapsed. Ongoing stabilization project to make the ruins open to the public.
Featured in the films Spider-Man and For Love or Money. Featured in Marvel Comics and Grand Theft Auto IV.
Franklin D. Roosevelt Four Freedoms Park (2012)
Four-acre memorial to FDR celebrating the “Four Freedoms” he articulated in his 1941 State of the Union address. One of Louis Kahn’s last works — he was carrying the finished designs when he died (heart attack) at Pennsylvania Station! Double-row of trees narrowing to the south point plaza containing an open granite Greek temple with carved inscriptions and a bust of Roosevelt sculpted in 1933. Paths use stones salvaged from the demolished City Hospital.
Opening ceremony featured President Bill Clinton, Tom Brokaw, Governor Andrew Cuomo, Mayor Michael Bloomberg, and relatives of Roosevelt. In 2015, Hillary Clinton launched her presidential campaign at the park.
City Hospital (1832)
Originally a penitentiary hospital destroyed by fire in 1858. New hospital designed by James Renwick, Jr. and completed by prisoners in 1861 — serving both inmates and the poor. In 1870, renamed to Charity Hospital. In 1877, Charity Hospital opened a school of nursing. In 1957, closed. In 1994, demolished — with some parts used in the Franklin D. Roosevelt Four Freedoms Park.
Blackwell Island Light (1872)
Formerly known as Welfare Island Lighthouse, but now known as the Roosevelt Island Lighthouse. James Renwick, Jr. was the supervising architect. Approximately 50 feet tall. Operated until about 1940. In the 1970s, partially restored; completed in 1998 by an anonymous donor.
Myths claim it was built by asylum patient John McCarthy and for many years a saying was inscribed on a stone near the lighthouse reading:
This is the work
Was done by
John McCarthy
Who built the Light
House from the bottom to the
Top All ye who do pass by may
Pray for his soul when he dies.
Chapel of the Good Shepherd* (1888)
Originally an Episcopal chapel, but is now the Good Shepherd Community Ecumenical Center. Beside the chapel is a 6-foot carbon steel column inspired by the Fourth Plinth in London’s Trafalgar Square that features rotating sculptures from local and international artists (currently Saecula Saeculorum by Michael Poast). Part of a project to make Roosevelt an “art island.”
Strecker Memorial Laboratory (1892)
The first institution in the nation for pathological and bacteriological research for City Hospital. Containing an autopsy room, laboratories, cellar mortuary — with an additional story built with a library, examination room and museum. Closed in the 1950s. Restored and since 200 an MTA power substation.
Dayspring Church and Rectory* (1924)
Originally the Episcopal Chapel of the Holy Spirit for the former Metropolitan Hospital. When the hospital moved to Harlem in 1955, the chapel was largely abandoned — except for the chaplain who liked his quarters so much that he stayed until the 1990s! Later a Dayspring Baptist Church, and currently a “speakeasy-style bistro” and events space. Featured in the television series Prodigal Son.
Roosevelt Island Tramway (1976)
“The tram” was the first commuter aerial tramway in North America and one of the few New York mass transit systems not run by the MTA (but uses MetroCard and free transfers). Built as a temporary solution to subway delays, but later converted to be permanent.
Each cabin can carry 125 people and makes approximately 115 3-minute 16 mph trips per day. At its peak it climbs to 250 feet. Over 26 million passengers annually.
From 1909, Roosevelt Island had been connected to Manhattan by a trolley (streetcar) line that crossed over the Queensboro Bridge, stopped in the middle to meet an elevator, then took passengers down to the island. Remained in service until 1957. Last system to use subway tokens (initially used a special token).
From 1993 to 1994, closed for repairs. From 1976 to 2006, the only aerial commuter tram in the US. In 2005, not affected by the transit strike. In 2005, more than 80 people were trapped on the tram for over 90 minutes. In 2006, two trams stuck over the East River for seven hours trapping 69 people (now equipped with blankets, water, food and a toilet with privacy curtain). In 2010, closed for 9 months for an upgrade (almost all components replaced).
The Marriage of Real Estate and Money (1996)
Three bronze sculptures by Tom Otterness that rise out of the water between Roosevelt Island and Midtown East.
The Prow (1997)
50-foot performance stage and observation platform designed like a ship’s prow and built over an old boat landing. Two small slots near the tip for non-existent anchor chains are the only nautical embellishment.
Wildlife Freedom Foundation (2005)
Inspired by the death of a beloved local cat by the name of Princess Yin Yang in 2004, a group formed to trap and neuter strays, and create an adoption program. Operates a small shelter on the southern end of the island.
Cornell Tech (2017)
$2 billion campus featuring two million square feet of space on an 11-acre site — formerly the Welfare Hospital for Chronic Disease (1939, demolished 2014) — where Harriet Bell lived (1954 to 1979) and assisted in drafting the Patient’s Bill of Rights.
In 2012, operated at the Google office (donated space) in Chelsea while the campus was being built. By 2037, the full campus is expected to span 12 acres over the temporary native-plant landscape. No parking lots to promote public transport. Said to have played a part in Amazon’s New York proposal for HQ2.
The Tata Innovation Center is a business incubator that is 70% commercially leased, with a 24,000-square-foot roof fitted with solar panels that doubles as an event space. The Bloomberg Center (2017) cost $115 million and is the city’s first net-zero energy building (“lilypad” solar panels, geothermal wells, color-changing discs to absorb/reflect heat, 40,000 gallon rainwater tank) with murals rescued from the demolished Welfare Hospital. Connected by a “Tech Walk” pedestrian corridor. Campus also contains a 26-floor residential building (The House) and a 244-room hotel.
Randalls and Wards Islands
Wards Island was called Tenkenas (“wild lands” or “uninhabited place”) by the Native Americans, while Randalls Island was called Minnehanonck. Conjoined islands separated from Manhattan by the Harlem River, from Queens by the East River and Hell Gate, and from the Bronx by the Bronx Kill. Little Hell Gate channel infilled by the early 1960s. Smaller Sunken Meadow Island connected in 1955 and is now Sunken Meadow Park.
In 1637, acquired by New Netherlands and named Great Barent Island (Wards) and Little Barent Island (Randalls). Both islands’ names changed several times. At times Randalls was known as “Buchanan’s Island” and “Great Barn Island”, both of which were likely corruptions of Great Barent Island. In 1772, Captain John Montresor of the British army purchased Randalls Island and renamed it Montresor’s Island. During the Revolutionary War, both islands hosted military posts for the British military. The British used his island to launch amphibious attacks on Manhattan, and Montresor’s house there was burned in 1777. Confiscated during when the British evacuated in 1783. In 1784, purchased by and named after Jonathan Randel — the current name is a typo!
Jaspar Ward and Bartholomew Ward purchased and built a cotton mill and wooden drawbridge (destroyed by a storm in 1821) to Manhattan 114th Street. Until 1840, Wards Island largely abandoned. In 1835, Randalls Island sold to the city for $60,000. In 1848, reception area for immigrants. Between 1840 and 1930, Wards island housed a burial ground (100,000 bodies), State Emigrant Refuge (1847, largest hospital complex in the world), New York City Asylum for the Insane (1863), Kirby Forensic Psychiatric Center (1985), and the Manhattan Psychiatric Center (largest in the world).
Randalls housed an orphanage, poor house, burial ground for the poor, Idiot Asylum (actual name), homeopathic hospital and rest home for Civil War veterans, and was also site of the New York House of Refuge (1854, children’s reform school), a reform school completed in 1854 for juvenile delinquents or juveniles adjudicated as vagrants. In 1984, the southeastern tip on Randalls officially designated “Negro Point” — and only changed to Scylla Point (paired with Charybdis Playground in Astoria Park opposite Hell Gate) in 2001!
Home to two psychiatric hospitals, a state police station, a NYFD training academy (subway tunnel with two cars, helicopter pad, replica ship), a wastewater treatment plant, and several homeless shelters. Population of 1,650 but not residential housing. Features over 60 athletic fields (40% of all Manhattan, the most for any city park), 8 miles of pathways, two saltmarshes, freshwater wetland, athletic stadium, golf center (2008, 82-stall driving range, 36-hole mini-golf, batting cages), tennis center (2009, 20 courts), a FIFA-certified soccer field, greenways, playgrounds, and picnic grounds. Runs youth programs, summer camp, movie nights, tours, yoga, and festivals (Cherry Blossom, Frieze Art Fair, Governors Ball, Panorama and Electric Zoo).
Manhattan Psychiatric Center (1954)
Originally part of New York City Asylum (1863) and expanded in 1871 and 1899. By 1899, renamed to Manhattan State Hospital — the largest (4,400 beds) psychiatric hospital in the world. Currently around 500 beds, but only around 200 patients.
Notable prisoners include Louis Pioggi (gangster), Martin Hildebrandt (tattoo artist), Scott Joplin (composer), Wilhelm Steinitz (first undisputed world chess champion) and Mabel Boll (“The Queen of Diamonds”).
Icahn Stadium* (2005)
Site of the former 22,000-seat Downing Stadium (also known as Triborough Stadium and Randall’s Island Stadium) from 1936 to 2002. In 1936 (opening night), mens Olympic trials where Jesse Owens qualified. In 1938, one of the first large outdoor jazz festivals, Carnival of Swing. In 1939, first televised American football game. During the 1930s, home to the New York Black Yankees. In 1949, Scotland defeated (soccer) the USA 4–0. In 1960, 500 stadium lights donated from Ebbets Field. In 1964, women’s Olympic trials. In 1964, England crushed (soccer) the USA 10–0! In 1968, New York Jazz Festival (Ray Charles, Miles Davis, Dizzy Gillespie, Miriam Makeba). In 1968, N.Y. City Fun Festival (Stevie Wonder, B.B. King). In 1970, New York Pop Festival (flop after half the lineup failed to show up and people crashed the gate! Jimi Hendrix played). In 1972, All Blacks defeated (rugby) New York Metropolitan 41–9. In 1975, Pelé made his NASL debut. In 1989, Ireland defeated (rugby) USA 32–7. In 1990, unofficial cricket match between Pakistan and Australia. In 1991, USA Outdoor Track and Field Championships. In 1994, Lollapalooza. In 1996, Pearl Jam. In 1997, Tibetan Freedom Concert. In 1997, Gaelic football match between Cavan and Kerry. In 2002, demolished.
Currently a 5,000-seat IAAF certified running track (one of five in the US) and multipurpose facility named after an American businessman. Hosts over 200,000 high school, college and professional athletes and spectators during the track season.
From 2005, hosts the Reebok (now Adidas) Grand Prix. In 2008, Usain Bolt set a 100m world record 9.72 seconds. In 2012, David Rudisha set a US 800m record with a time of 1:41.74 seconds. In 2013, two Major League Lacrosse games. In 2014, Cosmos Copa group stages.
John McEnroe Tennis Academy* (2010)
$18 million tennis complex. Notable academy athletes include Noah Rubin (Wimbledon Boys’ Singles champion) and Jamie Loeb (№1 Division 1 college player).
Governors Island
The birthplace of the State of New York — where the Dutch landed and New Netherlands was formed — is a 172-acre island approximately 800 yards south of Manhattan and 400 yards west of Brooklyn. Ice-cream cone-shaped, the 103-acre “cone” portion is landfill added in the 1913 from material from the first line subway. Public park with 52 historic buildings (49 built before 1917). Approximately 800,000 visitors per year.
Named Paggank (“nut island” after the chestnut trees) by the Lenape, Noten Eylandt by Dutch explorer Adriaen Block. Originally the water separating it from Brooklyn could be traversed at low tide — becoming known as Buttermilk Channel after the women who crossed to sell buttermilk in Manhattan!
In 1624, first landing of New Netherlands settlers aboard the New Netherland — exactly one hundred years after Varrazzano sailed into the harbor. In 1633, the fifth New Netherlands used the island for personal use. In 1664, ceded to the British and renamed Nutten Island. By 1680, contained a single house and pasture. In 1698, renamed to Governor’s Island (with apostrophe) and used exclusively by colonial governors. In 1710, quarantine station for refugees. In 1755, military encampment during the French and Indian War.
Military installation during the American Revolutionary War, with the Continental Army adding 40 cannons at night — with fortifications contributing to the success of George Washington’s retreat from Brooklyn to Manhattan. The British took the island and engaged in volleys with Fort George Battery. In 1776, an unsuccessful attempt by the Americans to detonate the submersible named Turtle at the island was the first submarine attack in history!
After the Revolution, used as a hotel and racetrack. In 1784, apostrophe removed from the name. In 1794, first public boat (rowboat) service. In 1800, transferred to the federal government. During the 1850s, cholera and yellow fever hospital. During the Civil War, held Confederate prisoners — who would frequently escape by swimming to Manhattan! In 1863, unsuccessful takeover by protestors during the Draft Riots. In 1870, quarantined during a yellow fever epidemic. In 1878, Army administrative center (with tennis courts, garden, and golf). By 1879, the “ugly little tug” transport replaced with a steamboat. In 1886, Army officer and Democratic Presidential nominee Winfield Scott Hancock died on the island. By 1886, cemetery remains moved to Cypress Hills. In 1885, first US solid waste incinerator built.
In 1909, the world’s first over-water flight by Wilbur Wright took off and landed on the island (circling the Statue of Liberty). After landed he celebrated at the wooden bar in the basement of the old South Battery Officers’ Club (Building 298), which stands empty today. In 1910, Glenn Curtiss flew from Albany landing on the island. In 1916 to 1917, aviation training center operated. In 1917, first overt military action when — minutes after the US declared war on Germany — troops from the island captured German vessels in the harbor. In the 1930s, 5,000 workers renovated the island. In 1940, ventilation building designed by McKim, Mead & White was added for the Brooklyn–Battery Tunnel. In 1941, Army recruitment center (processing 1,500 daily recruits). Between 1950 and 1952, while serving in the Army Burt Bacharach played piano (in a tuxedo) in the officer’s ballroom! In 1965, Army base decommissioned and handed to the US Coast Guard. In 1966, world’s first search-and-rescue training school.
In 1986, President Ronald Reagan visited the island as part of a ceremony to relight the Statue of Liberty after restoration. In 1988, Reagan and President-elect George Bush met with Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev on the island. In 1993, UN Governors Island Accord negotiated and signed. In 1995, island closed. In 2003, sold for $1 and opened for public use in 2005. In 2005, public ferry access from Manhattan started. Starting 2015, the island employs working dogs (currently four) to chase off super flocks Canada geese that protects native species and avoids large amounts of droppings.
Features three fortifications (Fort Jay, Castle Williams and South Battery), officer’s barracks (1830s), hospital (1830s), chapel (1846), munitions warehouse (1875), chapel (1907) and library (1908, named after the sunken Tampa). During Army use featured Our Lady, Star of the Sea church (1942), Congregation Shaare Shomayim synagogue (1960), movie theatre (1939, 700 seats), YMCA (1926), officer’s club, grand ballroom (Corbin Hall), polo ground, tennis courts, swimming pools and airfield. During Coastguard use featured a fire department, police, banks, stores, elementary school (1934, Building 301), Super-8 motel, golf course, bowling alley and Burger King (1983)!
New York Arsenal buildings were built in Greek Revival style to distinguish them from the Army buildings — although most troops lived in tents. Other notable buildings include numbers 135 (1835), 3–5 (1850s), 6–11 and 14–18 (1879), 19–20 (1890s), 12 (1931), 405–408 (1893 to 1895), 403–404 (1904 to 1906), 409 (1910), 410 (1917), and 111–112 (1934).
Activities on the island include free National Park Service tours of the National Monument, bike riding (Citibike), pedicabs, kayaking, urban farm, rock climbing, zip-lining, picnicking, art installations, fairs, festivals, glamping and concerts. Events include outdoor films, food festivals, Governors Island Art Fair (since 2007, Colonel’s Row buildings), concerts (Rite of Summer Festival since 2011, Jazz Age Lawn Party Prohibition-era cosplay event, 2011 inaugural Governors Ball Music Festival), sporting events (Longines Global Champions Tour equestrian jumping), Goverthing (2009 Dutch festival), French Carnival (2013) and an annual pumpkin patch.
The northern area of the island contains four open landscapes: Nolan Park (1870s) formerly the site of a bandstand. The Parade Ground is a 13-acre site used for military training, execution of Castle Williams prisoners, then part of the golf course. Colonels Row Green or Hay Park was created in the early 20th century.
The southern area contains 43 acres of parkland: Hammock Grove is 10 acres of rolling hills with over 60 species of trees and 50 hammocks. Play Lawn is 14 acres containing two fields. Picnic Point with areas for grilling and picnics. The Hills contains over 41,000 shrubs and 860 trees spanning 10 acres with four hills — Grassy Hill (26-foot), Discovery Hill (40-foot), Slide Hill (40-foot, longest slide in the city), and Outlook Hill (70-foot, observation area) — made partially of reclaimed debris from the demolition of the island’s former residential towers; partially funded by Google CEO Eric Schmidt.
Castle Williams (1807)
Named after Corps Chief Engineer Lieutenant Colonel (later Colonel) Jonathan Williams and part of a system of forts (the others being Fort Jay, South Battery, Castle Clinton, Fort Wood and Fort Gibson) designed and constructed in the early 19th century to protect New York City from naval attack.
A circular fortification 40 feet high and 210 feet in diameter and with 8-foot thick sandstone walls built on submerged rock. Each of its four levels had 13 casemates that could hold 26 cannons of varied caliber. A pioneering design, it established a prototype for American coastal fortification design for the rest of the 19th century.
Barracks and low-security military prison during the Civil War. Renovated in the 1930s and 1948. Ceased operations as a military prison in 1965. In 1966, taken over by the Coast Guard who considered demolishing the castle; instead becoming a community center with nursery, scouts club, woodworking shop, art studios, photography laboratory, and museum. From the 1970s a neglected storage facility until a restoration in 1997.
South Battery* (1812)
The Half-Moon Battery was built before the War and contained a barracks and 13 barbette guns. Later an officer’s mess and Catholic chapel by 1878; as a court-martial room by the 1880s; and as an amusement hall after a 1904 renovation. From the 1930s, used as an officers’ club.
Governor’s House* (1813)
Building 2 was originally known as the Guard House and is the oldest non-fortification structure on the island. Contrary to popular belief is not the Colonial Governor’s Mansion (built in 1702), but officers’ quarters and main guard house. Brick annex built in 1939.
Fort Jay (1833)
The oldest existing defensive structure on the island named for founding father of the US, John Jay. Largest army post defending the city at the time. Built in 1794 and named Fort Columbus from 1806 to 1904, after renovations. Surrounded by a moat that is now dry.
First posting and major departure point for newly graduated cadets, including Civil War future generals such as John G. Barnard, Horace Brooks, Abner Doubleday, Ulysses S. Grant, Robert E. Lee, Joseph E. Johnston, John Bell Hood, Theophilus H. Holmes, Thomas Jackson, Henry Wager Halleck, and James B. McPherson. Prisoner of war camp the Civil War, where the highest-ranking Confederate officer (Major General William H. C. Whiting) — who died of dysentery.
In 1861, Army recruits departed from the fort for South Carolina — prompting forces to fire on Fort Sumter resulting in the start of the Civil War! In 1878, Army administrative headquarters for the East Coast with many (Winfield Scott Hancock, Wesley Merritt, Oliver O. Howard, Nelson Miles, Arthur MacArthur) commanders becoming Commanders or Generals. During the 1930s, barracks converted to family housing. During WWI, headquarters for all East Coast Army units. In 1942, all but five guns were scrapped for the war effort. In 1964, closed — but used to house officers until 1996.
Block House* (1839)
Building 9, also known as the Governors Island Post Hospital, was formerly a prison. In 1864, roof replaced. In 1874, two wings added. In 1879, converted to offices and by 1947, officers’ quarters. Ulysses S. Grant was briefly stationed here early in his military career.
Birthplace of Tom and Dick Smothers (comedians) and Neal Adams (Batman and Superman comic book artist).
Admiral’s House* (1843)
Also known as Building 1, former Commanding Officer’s Quarters then later (1966) the Coast Guard headquarters for the East Coast. The south wing was added in 1886, and rear of the house in 1937. Notable residents include Omar N. Bradley, Robert Lee Bullard, Adna Chaffee, John J. Pershing, Walter Bedell Smith, Leonard Wood, Jonathan Wainwright, and Winfield Scott Hancock — who ran for president while living here.
In 1988, location of a meeting between President Ronald Reagan and Mikhail Gorbachev following a UN meeting — and important step towards the end of the Cold War. Closed in 1996.
Colonels Row (1870s)
Six generals’ houses. House 403 was the site of the final meeting between President Reagan, George Bush and General Secretary Mikhail Gorbachev. Within the year the Berlin Wall fell and the Soviet Union dissolved by 1991.
Chapel of St. Cornelius* (1907)
Building 13 replaced the old 1846 chapel, which was maintained by the Trinity Church.
Manhattan Golf Course (1920s)
Manhattan’s only course that closed in 1996 and re-opened for a one-time golf tournament in 2006 — The Manhattan Golf Classic which cost $1 million and featured Tom Watson, Annika Sorenstam, Natalie Gulbis, Dennis Quaid, William Shatner, Hank Haney and Donald Trump. Originally the parade ground and polo field.
Liggett Hall (1929)
Building 400 was the world’s longest (1,023 feet) building and largest army barracks (1,375 men) upon completion (the size of the Chrysler Building on its side). Designed by McKim, Mead & White and named after Lieutenant General Hunter Liggett.
Features and gable roof with cupolas, gymnasium (basketball court with Coast Guard seal) and Liggett Terrace — a multi-use plaza and park area. The building was so large it prevented La Guardia airport from being built on the island! In 1988, press center by reporters during the meeting between Reagan, Bush and Gorbachev. Rarely (OHNY) accessible to the public.
Early Birds Monument* (1954)
The only tribute to the island’s part in the early days of aviation and is located just outside the hall. A granite marker with bronze propeller (cast from the Wilbur Wright wooden propeller used in 1909), it was the first sculpture on the island and unveiled by an army helicopter lifting a parachute.
It honors pioneering aviators who flew solo before 1916: Wright (first to fly over New York), Curtis, Hamilton (survived 60 crashes and first to fly round trip from the island to Philadelphia), Atwood (set distance records and landed on the White House lawn), Jones (first US postal flight, from Boston to the island), Kantner (flying boat pioneer who died in a crash), Curtiss (died after his plane caught fire), Beachey (the first great stunt pilot who died after coming out of retirement — his wings fell off!), Ely (first to fly off a Navy ship and died in a crash the following year), Robinson (survived 15 crashes and lived to be 80), Ward (attempted to fly to California, crashed in New York), Heinrich (Brooklyn born, designed the first monoplane), Calstrom (set altitude, speed and endurance records, died in a crash after losing a wing), Bolling (one of the first Army aviators, flew from the island to Long Island) and Law (female pioneer before Earhart, broke the American cross-country record). Stinson (the “Flying Schoolgirl” who made a daring flight during World War I) missed the cut-off by six months.
Originally situated in front of Liggett Hall on what was named Early Birds Road (roughly Hammock Grove) where it faced the original landing field, relocated in 2014.
New York Harbor School* (2010, founded 2003)
The Urban Assembly New York Harbor School is the only city high school that attempts to relate every aspect of its curriculum to the water. Activities include sampling water quality, marine science, river history, conservation, rowing and sailing. Programs include vessel operations, ocean engineering, marine technology, diving, marine biology, marine policy and aquaculture.
Located in Bushwick before relocating in 2010. Annual regatta with notable attendees such as NBC’s Willie Geist and Savannah Guthrie, Martha Stewart, and sailing Olympians Dawn Riley and Hannah Swett.
Fort Jay Theater* (1939)
Constructed under supervision of Army Motion Picture Services, the 700-seat theatre screened double features for $2. Rumored that composer Irving Berlin’s This is Army was inspired by a show he saw there in 1942. Still standing, but unused.
Soissons Landing (1947)
Cast-iron piers dedicated to the Battle of Soissons during World War I, in which over half of the 16th Regiment were killed.
Lower Manhattan Cultural Council Arts Center* (LMCC) (1979)
Building 110 was initially used for arms storage, was the original entrance to the “world’s shortest railroad” (1918) — one and a half miles — consisting of three cars. Train dismantled in 1931, but tracks can still be seen on the ground floor.
The Honorable William Wall* (2002)
Manhattan Yacht Club’s floating clubhouse anchored in New York Harbor. Built for the Race Committee to start and finish sailboat races in the harbor. Open to the public.
Mill Rock*
A small unpopulated island south of Randalls and Wards Islands. Originally two smaller islands when William Hallet bought them from the local tribes in 1664. In 1701, John Marsh built a mill on one of them and the islands came to be called Great Mill Rock and Little Mill Rock. Later squatted by Sandy Gibson, who operated a farm there from 1840 to 1898.
During the War of 1812, blockhouse with two cannons built. In 1885, US Army Corps of Engineers detonated 300,000 pounds of explosives on adjoining Flood Rock — a treacherous island for East River shipping — in “the largest planned explosion before testing began for the atomic bomb” that was felt as far away as Princeton! In 1890, Floor Island rubble used to fill the space and join Mill Rock. Currently Mill Rock Park, but closed to the public since the 1960s. Since 2008, home to a large population of birds.
North and South Brother Islands*
Pair of small (20 and 6 acres) islands claimed by the Dutch in 1614 and named De Gesellen (“the companions”). Originally part of Queens County, transferred to the Bronx in 1881 and 1964 respectively.
North Brother was uninhabited until 1885, when Riverside Hospital moved there from Blackwell’s Island (now Roosevelt Island). Mary Mallon, also known as Typhoid Mary, was confined to the island for over two decades until she died there in 1938; the hospital closed shortly thereafter. In 1904, site of the General Slocum steamboat wreck that claimed over 1,000 lives. Following WWII, housed war veterans and their families. In the 1950s, center to treat adolescent drug addicts (where heroin addicts were locked in a room until they were clean); closed in 1963. In 2007, purchased by the city after being privately owned.
The island was the site of many outings organized by McSorley’s Old Ale House including “The Honorable John McSorley Pickle, Beefsteak, Baseball Nine, and Chowder Club”; photos of the outings are featured on the walls of the bar. The drug rehabilitation facility is said to have been the inspiration for the Broadway play Does a Tiger Wear a Necktie?, which helped to launch the career of Al Pacino. Currently a bird sanctuary closed to the public.
South Brother was the city’s first dump, but the smell travelled to nearby Bronx estates and Queens villages forcing it to close. Jacob Ruppert, a brewery magnate and early owner of the New York Yankees had a summer house on the island that burned down in 1909; abandoned since. In 1975, the city sold the island to a Long Island investment company for $10! In 2007, the island was purchased by the city for $2 million and is currently a wildlife sanctuary. As of 2008, some of the birds migrated to nearby Mill Rock.
Featured in the television shows Life After People, Unforgettable and Broad City.
